Narsing, a Buddhist monastery sitting nearly 4000 m above sea level. Nothing but coalescing bell chimes & prayer flags in the wind—pearl in the ramshackle—an ambient map for the ends of the earth.

Further downhill in Muktinath, the Goddess of Fire temple hosts the ‘eternal flame’—an undying natural gas fire situated by a stream of water. The union of earth, water, air, and fire here has called pilgrims to this sacred site for thousands of years. (And further downhill still lies the town of Ranipauwa, home to the Hotel Bob Marley and its pebble-floor showers. I kid you not.)

Back to Narsing, though, because it’s empty and immaculate and grand. And because it makes a home out of immeasurable vastness with the kind of silence you can’t ignore. We walked for nine days to get here—some portion of that accessible only by foot, horse, or yak. So then the motors die off and sounds get close. Sounds are footsteps up into the cavern of stars and teahouse small talk and fireplaces to keep bitter evenings from sputtering out. On the ninth day, we crossed the Thorung La pass & descended 1600 m before we made it here. Now I’m back to the kind of silence you can’t ignore—and the repeated realization that you see things you’ll never see again. Strangely, it doesn’t upset me at all.


Siu mai ( ) is a...

Without further ado, here's the recipe below.


1 lb ground pork